Guide walking in southern Snowdonia

Anyone who enjoys walking will know the joy of exploring a new area on foot, but even better is hitting the trail through a different kind of terrain. My lovely patch of the Home Counties offers farmland footpaths and babbling chalk streams, but no seashore, no tumbling rivers, and few steep slopes.  So my 4-night guided break with walking experts HF Holidays promises a whole new health and wellbeing experience.

Dolserau Hall

Never having explored the scenic contrasts of Southern Snowdonia, I book a Monday to Friday stay at Dolserau Hall near Dolgellau.  One of 16 HF Country House hotels, this 19^th century private house was reopened this summer after a major refurb and redesign, all aimed at bringing the outside inside and enhancing the guest experience.

First impressions are promising as I explore the public areas leading off the entrance hall.  Natural colours and nature-themed artwork reflect the landscape beyond the picture windows, and temptingly comfortable chairs in the lounge and bar are arranged to cater for groups of varying sizes. An activity room off the bar proves an inviting space to chill out solo over a jigsaw or join a board game or round of cards.

Lounge bar at Dolserau Hall

The comfort continues upstairs where guests have a choice of HF’s usual bedroom grades.   My friend and I treat ourselves to a Premium twin room which offers more space than standard accommodation plus extras such as bathrobes, slippers and toiletries, but an unexpected bonus is the two easy chairs in the bay window facing valley and mountain views.  Not most people’s perception of a walkers’ hotel!

View from our room

Choice of routes

Guests gather before dinner each evening for a rundown of the next day’s three walk options, routes being graded not just by distance but also by the degree of ascent and descent.  So if, like me, you are new to hill walking, the sensible choice is Option 1. You can always step up a grade tomorrow.

On the trail

Every walk is different, but the scenery in Snowdonia is always stunning, and I am pleased to find that I never feel outside my comfort zone as I tramp woodland trails and strike off up bracken-covered hillsides, slipping in and out of step with various walking companions as we go.   

Walkers are a positive bunch, undeterred by weather or temperature, and as we rack up our step count, I chat to a variety of interesting people from a university student to a retired surgeon, a teaching assistant to a music promoter.  The youngest is in her 20s; the eldest in her 80s; but all are young at heart and active.

View from Dolserau Hall

Guests can choose each day from a generous picnic lunch menu of sandwiches, salad bowls and a wide variety of nutritious snacks, and the chat continues as we eat al fresco.   Later, back at the house, friendships are cemented over pre-dinner drinks, a delicious home-cooked dinner, and low-key evening activities.  For most of us though, an early night is welcome after a day in the fresh air.

Contrast of Southern Snowdonia

Eryri National Park is home to Mount Snowdon, Wales’ highest mountain at 3,560 feet above sea level. But upland walking doesn’t have to imply mountains.   Walk Option 3 usually means steeper slopes and rougher terrain, so I end up picking the three lower-grade walks – each one around seven miles long – and still get a good leg stretch that is exhilarating for both mind and body. 

Southern approach to Harlech

Day one sees me following the side of a ridge with far-reaching valley views towards the coast at Barmouth, whilst on day two, I opt for a completely different side of Snowdonia that takes in a winding river estuary and a beach walk towards Harlech where there is time to visit the medieval castle.   

Harlech Castle

My last full day sees our group following an elevated path above Bala and the largest lake in Wales, but there’s still time next morning for a short circuit directly from Dolserau Hall before we leave – a steep but well-surfaced path up the Torrent Walk where moss-covered boulders from the Ice Age line a tumbling river gorge. 

Torrent Walk

Snowdonia and Dolserau Hall have delivered on every front and I feel exhilarated, but this week I am treating my lowland legs to a few very well-deserved days off!  

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